Why? Because it’s Joe’s, and nobody else’s. Not the bank’s. Not the silent partners. Not a private equity firm. Not even Merivale’s. It’s Joe’s.
Joe’s Table is not the fanciest, fastest and flashest restaurant in the eastern suburbs. But then, they have more than enough fancy, fast and flash restaurants. They could do with one that’s just nice, sincere and modest.
And Joe’s Table is one of the nicest, sincerest and most modest restaurants in the eastern suburbs. Why? Because it’s Joe’s, and nobody else’s. Not the bank’s. Not the silent partners. Not a private equity firm. Not even Merivale’s. It’s Joe’s.
Joe Kitsana is the original one-man band. Having worked over the years for Longrain, Sailor’s Thai and Phamish, he has been the sole chef, waiter, and sommelier of the tiny 20-seater Joe’s Table on King’s Lane in Darlo’s Republic precinct for the past eight years.
He’d get up early to go to Cabramatta to buy the produce, and stay up late to do the dishes and clean up for the next day. “I love the process from beginning to end,” he tells me. “There is satisfaction in having to prepare, cook and wash personally for my customers.”
Joe Kitsana is the original one-man band. He has been the sole chef, waiter, and sommelier of the tiny 20-seater Joe’s Table for the past eight years.
In late 2023, he moved 500 metres away to a larger but still modest site on the corner of Bourke and William streets. The front door, coming in off hectic William Street, is a bit of an issue (mind the step, it’s a doozy). The loo is basic, and can be found through a back door, behind a stack of folded tables.
Windows are lined with homely white curtains and the place is filled with regulars who greet Joe like an old friend. And Joe has plenty of old friends, from renowned chef Janni Kyritsis, who contributed the recipe for his Greek orange pudding, to media personality Deborah Hutton and gallerist Judith Neilson of White Rabbit.
In the kitchen – a surprise. Joe has a kitchen assistant, Gig Wutthipong, enabling him to emerge long enough to bring menus, take orders, clear tables, fetch water and settle bills, then go back in to cook.
On the menu – no real surprises. This is the Thai food Joe does best – simple curries, a couple of snacks and stir-fries. Thai fish cakes, caramelised beef ribs with pickled mustard greens, silken tofu with garlic and chilli. It’s simple, bright home cooking, carpeted with herbs; instantly familiar to so many Sydneysiders.
A couple of off-duty hospo folk recommend the Hanoi spring rolls. Thanks, good call. Rolled in banh trang rice paper rather than spring roll pastry, they’re chunky, chewy, and filled with chicken, black fungus and veg ($19.50), with a bowl of nuoc cham for dipping.
Western Australian snapper fillets ($31.50) are steamed and bathed in a pool of herby coconut broth tangled with herbs and makrut lime leaf. Yes, you’ll be needing jasmine rice with that ($4.50 per person). Red curry with barbecue duck ($31.50) takes me back to the