Spending too much time outdoors or indoor tanning without protection can lead to serious health complications. The AIM at Melanoma Foundation warns that every time you get a sunburn, you damage the DNA in your skin. The more you burn, the more likely you are to develop skin cancer. That's why sunless self-tanners are a safer alternative to baking your skin under UV rays.
From St. Tropez and Bali Body to Hawaiian Tropic, many brands offer ways to get an immediate tan or enjoy a gradual glow-up. Popular types of self-tanner include lotion, oil, mousse, spray and drops. But are these products suitable for everyone? Dermatologists are here to weigh in.
What are self-tanners?
Self-tanners are products that replicate the look of a suntan without damaging your cells the same way an actual tan from the sun would. You can use these products to gradually get tan, such as by using a daily moisturizer, or to tan quickly using an instant tan cream. Even instant tan products may take a few hours to set in, but they're a great option for getting tan right before a big event or going on vacation.
How do they work? As Dr. Natalie Hone, a dermatologist with Memorial Hermann in Texas, says, "These products typically contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which reacts with the outer skin layers to produce a tan. DHA is approved by the FDA for topical use." More specifically, the Skin Cancer Foundation explains that DHA combines with the amino acids in your skin to cause browning.
It's worth noting that there is a difference between self-tanning products and tanning products. While self-tanners replicate the look of being in the sun, tanning products change how the sun interacts with your skin. Something like tanning oil contains mineral and coconut oils to make you tan faster under UV rays. These products are not as safe as self-tanners.
Are self-tanners safe?
When compared to the sun, self-tanners are safer. For the most part, you should be able to use these products without any negative side effects. However, Hone advises, "Using self-tanners is generally safe when applied as directed. However, it's important to follow the instructions to reduce the risk of skin irritation."
When choosing a product, you may also want to consider how dry your skin is. Dr. Yoram Harth, a board-certified dermatologist and medical director of MDhair, explains, "Self-tanning oils are often lighter in texture and can provide a more natural-looking glow, making them suitable for dry skin. They can be easier to apply and absorb quickly, but they might need more frequent applications."
As for self-tanning lotion, Harth offers, "Self-tanning lotions, on the other hand, are thicker and provide more hydration, making them ideal for normal to dry skin types. They may offer longer-lasting results but can require more effort to blend evenly."
If you have an existing skin condition, such as contact dermatitis or eczema, you may want to consult your dermatologist or primary care physician before you try a new self-tanner. You may be more likely to experience discomfort or other side effects.
Is it safe to wear self-tanners overnight?
Dermatologists recommend following the instructions on your self-tanning product. Leaving your tanning product on for longer than recommended can not only lead to a patchy tan, but it could also bother your skin. That said, as long as your self-tanner is intended to be worn for several hours, it could be alright to wear it to bed.
Harth puts it this way: "Yes, it is typically safe to wear self-tanner overnight. Most self-tanners are designed to develop over several hours, and staying on the skin overnight can enhance their effectiveness."
However, wearing your tanning product to bed could have other consequences. The doctor warns, "To avoid staining your bedding, wear loose, dark clothing and allow the product to dry completely before going to bed. If you have sensitive skin, you might want to do a patch test first to ensure you won't have a reaction." A patch test is always a good idea, but especially if you plan to retire for the night and won't notice right away if you start to develop a negative reaction.
Do you need to wear sunscreen with a self-tanner?
The short answer is yes. It's essential to keep up your SPF routine, even after you apply self-tanner. As Hone explains, "Self-tanners provide a cosmetic tan but do not protect against UV rays." Unless your self-tanning products advertise having SPF, and most don't, you should not assume they are meant to block harmful UV rays.
As for how you can supplement your self-tanning with SPF to be outdoors more safely, Hone says, "To shield your skin from sun damage and reduce the risk of skin cancer and premature aging, apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every day. And reapply every two hours when you're outside." Harth agrees, saying wearing SPF in addition to self-tanner "will help protect your skin from sun damage and maintain your tan longer."
You may want to check your self-tanner to see when it's OK to apply other products on top without streaking your tan. If it's recommended that you wait an hour to shower off your self-tanner, try to avoid spending a lot of time outdoors during that window. Even being in the car can put you at risk of sunburn, so apply sunscreen to your face and body every day.
Self-tanner risks
There are some risks associated with self-tanning lotions and oils, though most people can tolerate these products without any issues. Harth warns, "Some people may experience allergic reactions or skin irritation, especially if they have sensitive skin."
The Cleveland Clinic says that it's important to remember that spray tans may lead to risks that are not present when you're using a self-tanning lotion or other topical product. The hospital points out that the FDA has not approved DHA for use in spray tanning booths. According to the FDA, this is because it may be impossible to avoid breathing in spray tan products or getting some on your eyes and lips.
The FDA recommends asking yourself if your eyes will be protected, if your lips will be covered and if there are protections against inhalation before you use a spray or mist. Harth agrees with this recommendation: "Inhaling or ingesting self-tanners can be harmful, so avoid applying them near your eyes, mouth or nose."
If you have particularly sensitive skin, you may want to avoid products with fragrance or preservatives, which could be more likely to trigger a negative reaction. Always test a small patch before treating the rest of your body.
How to care for your skin when using a self-tanner
First and foremost, wearing sunscreen is the best way to keep your skin healthy when using a self-tanner. Beyond that, the dermatologists we spoke with offer practical tips to keep your skin healthy and your faux tan looking great.
Hone offers the following five-point plan for skin care while self-tanning:
- Exfoliate: Exfoliate your skin before applying a self-tanner to remove dead skin cells and create a smooth surface for an even application.
- Moisturize: Keep your skin well-moisturized, especially in areas prone to dryness like elbows and knees, to avoid uneven tan patches.
- Avoid shaving or waxing right before application: This can irritate your skin and lead to uneven tanning.
- Use a tanning mitt: This helps apply the product evenly and prevents staining your hands.
- Limit water exposure: After application, avoid swimming or excessive sweating to ensure the tan develops evenly.
Harth elaborates that you should avoid sweating or being in water for about six to eight hours after applying self-tanner. He agrees that moisturizing and exfoliating are helpful when applying your self-tanner, but adds that it can also benefit your look as the tan starts to fade. "Regular exfoliation and moisturizing will help your tan fade evenly and naturally," he says.