Posted: 2024-08-17 02:27:41

Crocodiles and sharks are just everyday work hazards for Josh Taylor and the other fishermen who battle some of the harshest conditions in Australia to catch one of the nation's most prized seafoods — mud crabs.

Many live in makeshift wooden huts, with no creature comforts, amongst mosquito-infested mangrove swamps in the estuaries around the Gulf of Carpentaria. 

It may be no surprise then that Mr Taylor is one of just 49 fishers who hold mud crabbing licences in the Northern Territory, and one of just six who drop their pots in the remote King Ash Bay. 

Mr Taylor says he's not too worried about the hazards that lurk beneath his boat, but he knows how quickly things can go wrong.

"One day I was running one of the old boats, dropping crab pots along the way, and one of the crab pot ropes tangled around my leg," he said.

"I was travelling 30 to 40 kilometres an hour … and the rope almost pulled me into the water."

At full stretch he was able to reach the motor and turn it off, saving himself from falling overboard at the last minute.

Saltwater crocodile seen lying behind a branch in the muddy backdrop of a sandy mangrove channel.

This saltwater crocodile was spotted in the mangroves of King Ash Bay near Borroloola in the Northern Territory.(ABC News: Jan Kohout )

"I had no hairs left on my leg and my pelvis was sore for days. I couldn't walk," he said.

"We've had a few encounters with some crocodiles just lurking on the side of the boat but nothing ever actually jumped in trying to capsize it … but they are there."

With the nearest help a 30-minute boat ride away, he is fortunate he wasn't more seriously injured.

Despite the hazards, Mr Taylor, who became a commercial mud crabber four years ago, says he enjoys heading out in his boat, catching fish to eat for dinner, and returning to the simple shack he shares with two other fishermen at King Ash Bay. 

A homebuilt shack made out of wood, tarp, nets and bolts sits on the edge of the water for mud crabbers to sleep on.

The simple shack Josh Taylor shares with two other mud crabbers in the mangroves near King Ash Bay.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

An interior view of a makeshift wooden shack with a fridge and a tent in it, alongside fishing lures.

The fishing shacks are simple and have basic cooking facilities.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

Why crabbing is a gamble

King Ash Bay sits where the McArthur River meets the Gulf of Carpentaria, about 700 kilometres south-east of Katherine.

Under the water, in the mangrove channels near the town where the river meets the ocean, mud crabs dig holes to live in.

A wide, flat river at sunrise.

Commercial fishermen are licensed to catch mud crabs in King Ash Bay, where the McArthur River meets the Gulf of Carpentaria.(ABC News: Daniel Fitzgerald)

They are highly prized and sell to seafood restaurants and retailers across Australia and overseas for between $70 and $100 dollars per kilo. 

As each license holder is entitled to use up to 60 pots — which can catch up to 10 crabs each — it can be a lucrative business.

But not always.

A big crab pictured tied from his claws to its body by a tight green rope and held

Crabs are tied up before being stored with up to 30 other crabs, kept live and sent off for export.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

Most of the crabs are caught on the incoming tide during the dry season from May to October. 

But the crabbing season this year has been a real gamble for those trying to make a living from the industry, Mr Taylor said.

"I'm roughly getting one or two [per pot], but then there are also blanks," he said.

A crab fisherman seen pulling out a crab pot out of the water.

Josh Taylor says some days he catches three or four crabs per pot, but on others, the pots are empty.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

Fellow commercial mud crabber Ash Garner says this year's catch numbers have fallen 25 per cent from last year due to flooding caused by Tropical Cyclones Lincoln and Meghan, which hit the Borroloola coast in quick succession.

The flooding caused the McArthur River to rise to a record 15.06 metres at Borroloola, with sand, rock and soil debris flooding the mangrove channels around the bay — forcing the crabs to live elsewhere.

One rectangular shack made out of wood and tarp is peering out of the bush on the river side next to destroyed one.

Some of the fishing huts were destroyed by cyclones that hit the Gulf in March 2024.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

"The river came up quite quickly, and dumped millions of tons of sand down on the mudflats and down the riverbeds where the mud crabs normally live," Mr Garner said.

Mr Taylor said he and the other fishers in King Ash Bay were now "hunting around, trying to find out where they are".

Two brightly coloured fishing lures hang above a window, beside names of fish written on a wall.

Fishing lures hang inside Mr Taylor's shack.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

Crabbing is 'really lonely'

Mud crabber You Meng Ong, who arrived in Australia 35 years ago from Cambodia and relies on the industry to support his family, said living off the low catches this season was more challenging due to the increasing cost of licenses.

"This year I've made no money, my work only pays for the licence, for the new catch bag and for the fuel," he said.

A Cambodian man sitting in a tent like structure with bags,clothes and a bed to sleep on.

You Meng Ong built his hut from tarps and wood, and has been crabbing for 35 years.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

"If you're lucky, you have a little bit [of money] to support your family, but sometimes you cannot make money, you just lose."

Mr Ong said his lack of English led him to life as a mud crabber because he was unable to find work in any towns. 

"When you're the only crabber it's really lonely," he said.

"Sometimes rain, sometimes mosquito, sandfly, then you work hard to get the crab and you get nothing.

"But I'm stuck here because my English was never good, that's why no one ever needed me when I [tried to find work]."

You Ming Ong pictured standing in the center of his kitchen in his own homebuilt shack made out of tarp and wood.

You Ming Ong says the life of a crabber can be very lonely.  (ABC News: Jan Kohout)

'I just like crabs'

Mr Taylor's journey into the mangrove swamps started four years ago when he made a permanent move from Queensland to the Northern territory.

"I just like crabs, even when I was really young when I was growing up, we had a lot of estuaries, and I was always down there throwing crab pots in," he said.

After working as a concreter and farmer, he jumped at the chance to holiday in King Ash Bay, where he helped out on a mud crabbing boat.

A composite image of a basket with two fish in it, and a man holding a fish.

One bonus of the job is that fresh fish are in constant supply for dinner.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

"I met the boys here, who were mud crabbing, and I met a fellow who I helped out on a boat for a week … and then learned the ropes," he said.

"He eventually asked me if I wanted to come back and run his crabbing business.

"So, I went home, loaded up my swag and my dogs and moved up to the NT."

A big boat is floating in the middle of the mangrove channel.

Josh Taylor sometimes sleeps on his houseboat in the mangrove channel. (ABC News: Jan Kohout)

He understands Mr Ong's sense of isolation.

As he spends most of the year in his shack or on his houseboat, he concedes, it is hard to find a partner.

"That's the hardest part about living in the mangroves — if someone wants to be dedicated to stay with you, they’ve got to be a strong person to live out in the bush and be with you for 9 months or so," he said.

A well-used cooktop with a kettle and a frying pan sitting on it.

The huts are simple but they have cooking facilities and fridges.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

"I'm 33 years old, I need to start a family and find a girlfriend, I don’t want to be single my whole life.

"Just having a bit of companionship would be nice."

'No one can annoy you'

William Jacobson is only 15, and although he's new to the industry, he sees a future for himself in mud crabbing at King Ash Bay. 

Life in Darwin didn't hold much promise for William, so when his father suggested he explore a different lifestyle working on a crabbing boat, he jumped at the chance.

Mud crabbers seen kneeing on the boat docked to homebuilt wood warf.

William Jacobson, left, and Josh Taylor both discovered a love of mud crabbing after being invited to visit King Ash Bay.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

"I came up here and worked for six months and then I worked for another crabber and stayed with him for a year and half," William said.

"Now I'm thinking of becoming a professional crabber.

A foot holds a mud cracb in place as hands tie it up with green twine.

The crabs are tied securely before being stored.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

"I like going out there on the boat and staying out there … where no one can annoy you or anything.

"The only thing I find difficult at the moment is tying the crabs tight enough but I’m slowly getting there."

Career pivot pays off 

Unlike Mr Taylor and William, Ash Garner didn't exactly drift into mud crabbing — he diversified into it.

Mr Garner has been living in King Ash Bay since 2007, and he and his partner own King Ash Bay Lodge, but they had to change career during the pandemic when the tourism industry collapsed. 

Ash Garner pictured siting behind the a bar bench at the Groper bar wearing a black t shirt.

Mud crabber Ash Garner is also King Ash Bay fishing club's president.(Supplied: King Ash Bay Fishing Club Facebook)

"We were already running up trucks to Darwin, so I had a relationship with the mud crabbing agents [there]," he said.

"Then I just hit up some of the guys to see if they had a spare crabbing license so I could get some work."

It suited him well.

"I've always been into fishing, even as a kid," he said.

A baseball hat sits on a control panel displaying the time, with water visible through a boat's window..

Equipment on Ash Garner's fishing trawler.(ABC News: Jan Kohout)

"When I finished school and came back to Borroloola, I got my qualifications in Darwin and built a charter fishing boat.

"Then the mud crabbing went well, so I started investing in it more and kept on going."

Although it's been a tough season, Mr Garner said he was hopeful the next one would be more productive.

“If you had several seasons like this in a row it would be quite concerning, but since last year was a good season we’re still OK,” he said.

"Hopefully if we have a good wet this year, we can pick up again and then we will be able to recover."

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