Collaboration between fashion and technology is becoming commonplace. Especially partnerships with sustainability at their core. In one recent example, French fashion house Chloé has partnered with pre-loved fashion marketplace Vestiaire Collective and digital ID company EON. As part of Chloé’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, the luxury brand is launching an innovative circular economy project, the Chloé Vertical. The range includes ready-to-wear fashion, bags and shoes made of 100 per
per cent traceable materials and aims to increase the production of raw materials. Chloé Vertical is powered by EON, whose digital IDs enable brands to bring product traceability to the forefront. In this instance, it offers Chloé consumers an efficient way to list items on Vestiaire Collective while tracing the product’s journey. Products within the Chloé Vertical range are equipped with an NFC tag or QR code for consumers to scan, which automatically opens the Digital ID page for consumers to view details such as the product’s traceability, the ownership certificate, care and repair, and sustainability information. In a recent statement, Chloé president and CEO Riccardo Bellini said, “I’m delighted to be offering Chloé customers around the world the opportunity to make informed decisions about the transparency, traceability and circularity of our products.” When a customer is ready to list their Chloé Vertical item, they can scan the tag on the inside of the product and upload current images and a description within a pre-filled listing form. Vestiaire Collective will offer an estimated price for the item. Lowering the barriers to resale for customers is a priority at the French luxury fashion house, to encourage greater participation in fashion circularity. Bellini said, “The way I see it, once you buy a product, you know everything about that product. Then when you want to resell it, you just click on your digital ID and instantly resell it.” By 2025, Chloé aims to have digital IDs in all products. It is also working towards making 90 per cent of its materials lower impact and using 30 per cent Fair-Trade sourcing, creating transparency and traceability across its supply chain as a B Corp certified organisation. Chloé Vertical has been a work in progress for the past 12 months, with the three companies working closely after being connected through the Sustainable Markets Initiative’s Fashion Taskforce, founded by King Charles III. Change in fashion requires a movement The taskforce is focused on two key areas: unlocking circularity through an industry-wide digital ID system to inform consumers about the sustainability credentials of their garments; and exploring how regenerative farming practices for raw materials can lower environmental impact. “The digital passport’s [digital ID’s] ultimate objective is to empower customers to make informed sustainable purchase choices as they increasingly demand disclosure, transparency and traceability,” said Federico Marchetti, chair of the fashion task force and founder of the Yoox Net-a-Porter Group. Marchetti continued, “Chloé is taking another huge step forward with its implementation. Gabriela Hearst and Riccardo Bellini have always been one step ahead in looking to the future and combining technology with a genuine desire to change the system for the better.” Mobilising clothing for circularity The EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles is advocating for digital IDs to be mandatory on textiles sold in Europe by 2030; however, brands are adopting digital ID technology ahead of impending legislation, to fast track circular practices and supply-chain transparency. This legislation will affect global brands exporting goods to Europe and it’s likely an international standard in digital product passports will be required to maintain protocols and implementation. As this area picks up speed, expect a wave of new retail models to emerge, offering exciting and innovative customer experiences. Digital IDs are an untapped technology in global fashion, and will accelerate transparency. Brands that are on board early will be favoured over organisations hiding aspects of their supply chain. Fast fashion brands and companies sourcing unethical raw materials and exploiting garment workers will have their dirty laundry aired. The current state of technology is experiencing immense disruption with Web3 and AI tools, but digital product passports are an important part of ensuring a circular future. They are something brands can leverage now to expand their sustainability plan. They can establish appropriate channels for consumers to enjoy and move clothing on responsibly. The Chloé Vertical range is an exemplary project showcasing not only a viable use case for digital IDs, but also tangible pathways for people to become conscious consumers reducing their environmental impact. More initiatives like this are needed for systemic change to occur and there isn’t any brand or designer exempt from playing a role in a better future for fashion.