Following its 2020 bow-to-stern refurbishment, there’s a lot to love on Norwegian Cruise Line’s smallest ship. The $US100 million ($147 million) refit added and updated staterooms, introduced 14 new venues (including the line-exclusive Onda by Scarpetta restaurant), and spruced up the hull art. The kids’ waterpark was replaced with an adults-only retreat, Spice H2O, and Mandara Spa doubled in size and now includes a thalassotherapy relaxation zone.

NCL, generally known more for its family-oriented mega ships, aimed to please discerning, grown-up cruisers with this thoughtfully remodelled ship. It has succeeded.

Boarding

I check in online about a week before embarkation, which means I can download bag tags and print eDocs. I’m all set and excited to board the ship on a gloriously sunny, blue-sky day.

Departure from the Port of Vancouver’s Canada Place Cruise Ship Terminal is smooth and stress-free. I stay in Yaletown the night before embarkation; from the hotel it’s less than a 10-minute drive to the port.

As the home port for many Alaska cruises, the terminal can host up to four ships at a time. Even at full capacity as it is today, the lines move quickly.

The design

Originally built for Star Cruises, Norwegian Spirit became part of the NCL fleet in 2004. The most compact NCL ship, she has NCL signature venues, including Stardust Theatre, Windows main dining room, Le Bistro, Mandara Spa and Pulse Fitness.

The spaces

Small enough to feel familiar and easy to navigate, large enough to ensure the ship doesn’t feel crowded, Spirit is a relaxing vessel to call home for a week. Even the most popular public spaces – the Spice H2O pool deck and Spinnaker observation lounge – have enough deck chairs and lounges for everyone.

The spacious atrium is a well-patronised gathering spot for everything from disco dancing lessons to bingo, piano music and future cruise presentations.

It’s worth booking a Thermal Suite pass, at least for a day, to try the sauna, steam room, heated pool and ceramic recliners.

The Local casual diner and bar is a favourite, laid-back spot on the ship and is open 24 hours.

The stateroom

If you have to be in an inside cabin, this is one of the best. Veteran cruisers know it’s worth considering low-cost inside cabins on summer Alaska sailings, when you’ll save money and be cocooned from 20+ hours a day of bright sunshine.

All of Spirit’s staterooms (inside, oceanview, balcony and suite) were given a glow-up during the dry-dock refurbishment. Elegant brown headboards and dark-grey carpets offset silver-hued soft furnishings. There is no Haven, the elite ship-within-a-ship found on other NCL vessels.

My stateroom is 15 square metres, which is fine for one, but could be a squeeze for two. There’s a queen-sized bed, a desk and chair, small couch, wall-mounted TV, a roomy closet and bathroom with plenty of storage.

People who book family inside cabins (14.2 square metres and taking up to four passengers) clearly don’t need as much personal space as I do.

The food

Complimentary dining options are plentiful and tasty on the ship, including the ever-popular Local Bar & Grill (fish and chips, burgers, pot pie), main dining rooms Taste and Windows, and Asian dishes at Silk. Room service is available 24 hours a day, which is handy for breakfast or a cuppa on early-morning, shore-excursion departure days.

Guests who haven’t booked NCL’s Free at Sea package, which includes specialty dining meals, can pay a surcharge to dine at Onda by Scarpetta, Cagney’s Steakhouse, Le Bistro, Sushi Bar or the lively teppanyaki restaurant.

Starbucks’ drinks, cupcakes and snacks are available at Atrium Cafe.

Wellness

Mandara Spa & Salon is the place for pampering, if you have deep pockets. As is the norm on most cruise ships, massages, facials and body treatments run upwards of $US200 a treatment. Better to wait for a port-day special, which might include, for example, a 75-minute scalp-to-toe massage for $US149.

The spa’s footprint was doubled in the refurbishment, making it easier to secure an appointment, though it’s still wise to book ahead.

The extra-fee Thermal Suite for adults, added in 2020, is decked out with heated ceramic recliners, a thalassotherapy pool, hot tubs, steam room, sauna and tropical rain showers. Very popular during cold-weather sailings to Alaska, it might appeal less to cruisers now the ship will be sailing busy itineraries in steamy Asia.

There’s a main pool and four outdoor hot tubs, which fill with cruisers – and stay full for the duration of the cruise – before we’ve left Vancouver. The same goes for Pulse Fitness Centre, where the battle of the cruise bulge is waged valiantly on treadmills, rowing machines, aerobics classes and Pilates sessions.

Entertainment

The razzle-dazzle entertainment is centred on Stardust Theatre’s main stage, where one night it’s a live version of the TV show Deal or No Deal (contestants and audience members can play for cash prizes), and the next it’s showgirls and sequins.

The marquee show in the 807-seat venue is Blazing Boots, a tribute to pop country hits by the likes of Shania Twain, Florida Georgia Line and Luke Bryan. If you’re into line dancing and plaid shirts, you’ll love it.

Around the ship, there’s always something happening. Stand-up comedy, live music, a nightclub and casino with table games and slot machines are boredom-busting options.

The crew

NCL does well in a competitive market to recruit some of the friendliest and most genuinely caring crew at sea. As a solo traveller on this voyage, I value the chats and interactions with the steward assigned to my cabin, and the bartenders and waiters from around the world.

It’s worth taking the time to fill out crew compliment forms, which can help staff secure promotions and pay rises.

The verdict

Mid-size ship, max-size enjoyment. Sailing with fewer than 2000 passengers, the ship never feels crowded and there’s no waiting for elevators. Yet, it’s large enough to have plenty of dining, entertainment and outdoor options. It’s the right size for people like me who shy away from super-sized ships.

The refurb is one of the best I’ve seen and has turned Spirit into a stylish, value-for-money vessel for adult cruisers.

The details

Norwegian Spirit is sailing in Asia from November 2024-December 2025. An eight-night cruise in Japan and South Korea costs from $2705 a person. See ncl.com.

Rating out of five

★★★★

Swell

The adults-only Spice H2O pool and hot tub retreat on Deck 10 is a quiet spot to relax, read and enjoy panoramic views.

Not so swell

The absence of rollercoasters, waterslides and cartoon character tea parties is fine by me, but might not suit families cruising with kids and teenagers.

The writer travelled with assistance from NCL.