I’ve made one stop at Bodegas Tradicion, a producer of high-end sherry in central Jerez, where the tour takes in both the cellar and the adjoining art gallery, as well as a sample of the company’s products in a vine-covered courtyard at the end.

I also visited Bodegas Luis Perez, a winery atop a hill in the dusty countryside on the outskirts of Jerez, a maker of more recognisable table wines rather than sherry. Here you come to realise the versatility and the pure deliciousness of palomino fino, the white grape that’s native to this region, and which goes into the making of so many of its best products.

But let’s get back to the flamenco. There are three ways to experience this art form in Jerez: at a theatre, where there are regular formal performances; at a “pena”, a local flamenco club, where the scene is at its rawest; and a tabanco, where shows are cheap, usually paired with simple food, and the performers demonstrate a range of different “palos”, or forms of flamenco.

I visit three tabancos over three nights – Tabanco el Pasaje, La Guarida del Angel, and Tabanco a la Feria – and each offers something slightly different, different performers, different palos, different levels of intensity and skill. At all, however, you can see the passion wrought on faces, you can see the glistening of sweat and the reverence for the form, and you can understand just a little more of the full character of Jerez.

The writer travelled with assistance from Turespana and the Tourist Office of Jerez de la Frontera. See andalucia.org

THE DETAILS

FLY + TRAIN
Emirates flies from major Australian ports to Madrid, via Dubai. See emirates.com
From Madrid, Renfe has train services to Jerez de la Frontera. See renfe.com

SEE + DO
Tabanco el Pasaje is open Monday to Saturday, with three flamenco shows a day. See tabancoelpasaje.com
Bodegas Tradicion has tours twice daily. See bodegastradicion.es
Bodegas Luis Perez is open Monday to Friday, with tours by appointment. See bodegasluisperez.com